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molly’s all of the alliums fried rice

September 21, 2016

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I think fried rice may have been one of the first things I learned from my mother and grandmother in the kitchen.  I imagine it must be like Sunday gravy in that every family has their own little way of doing things, though I don’t know that ours was so much a heirloom recipe as just an easy, quick, and comforting way to get food on the table:  for us it always began with eggs and a generous pinch of salt, whisked vigorously with chopsticks and scrambled into small wisps in a screaming-hot wok.  These were set aside to make way for diced white onion, sauteed until translucent, green peas, most often straight from a bag in the freezer and thawed in the wok, and some form of cooked, diced meat (usually, in a moment of fusion before fusion’s time, bits of deli sliced honey ham), before it all got stirred up with rice, salt, and pepper, to be kept warm in the wok over low heat, crackling softly, until a crispy crust formed on the bottom and everyone got seconds, thirds, and fourths.

All the idiosyncrasies to a family staple like fried rice always makes me so excited to see how someone else might do things, and that’s never more true when that someone is Molly Yeh, and that descriptively named, allium-happy recipe is one from her new cookbook!  Molly on the Range comes out in a few scant weeks on October 4, and is full of everything that her blog has always been:  recipes that are as joyful, fun-loving, and vivacious as their creator, with the beautiful photography, peppery prose, and even hand-drawn illustrations to match.  There’s schnitzel bao and dukkah donuts, homemade Funfetti cake and Asian scotch eggs.  It is what I love — when food is a reflection of self.  And in this case, self is happiness and sprinkles.

There were many things to endear me to this version of fried rice, both because it is familiar in ways and very different in others.  I love that it also leaves the bottom to crisp (though in this case, my pregnant brain may or may not have forgotten about it and let it go a bit too long at a bit too high heat, don’t be like me) and, in line with my personal preference, has a very high ratio of Other Stuff : Rice.  But, unlike any fried rice I’ve ever made, the Other Stuff is almost all alliums of different sorts; those alliums are sauteed in butter rather than my usual oil, which lends a creamy unity to the rice that is wonderfully comforting.  Perhaps my favorite thing about this fried rice, though, is the full tablespoon of ginger that goes in — while I would never have thought to add it before, I think I might be sneaking finely grated ginger into all my fried rice from now on, because it adds a bright vivacity to the fried rice that is refreshingly new and wholly addictive.  It’s the same vivacity, I think, that infuses all of Molly on the Range.  

Biggest congratulations to you, Molly!  I couldn’t be more thrilled to have this cookbook brightening my kitchen.

all of the alliums fried rice, from molly on the range | two red bowls

all of the alliums fried rice, from molly on the range | two red bowls

all of the alliums fried rice, from molly on the range | two red bowls

all of the alliums fried rice, from molly on the range | two red bowls

all of the alliums fried rice, from molly on the range | two red bowls

all of the alliums fried rice, from molly on the range | two red bowls

Print

All of the Alliums Fried Rice, from Molly on the Range

Print Recipe

Reprinted with permission from Molly on the Range: Recipes and Stories from An Unlikely Life on a Farm, by Molly Yeh (Rodale 2016).

Ingredients

Scale
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 4 cups finely chopped alliums of your choice: onions, shallots, leeks, scallions, ramps
  • Kosher salt
  • Flavorless oil
  • 4 large eggs, beaten
  • Black pepper
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
  • 2 cups cooked brown or white rice
  • Sriracha and mayonnaise (or Sriracha mayo), for serving

Instructions

  1. In a large skillet or wok, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the alliums and a good pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until everything is nice and soft and smelling really good, 12 to 15 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, heat a separate medium skillet over medium-high heat and coat the bottom with a thin layer of oil. When the pan is hot, add the eggs and cook, gently scraping up the bottom with a silicone spatula, until mostly set. Remove the eggs from the heat, season with salt and pepper, give them a rough chop, and set aside. (Alternatively, you could cook the eggs first in the large skillet, then remove them before adding the butter and cooking the alliums.)
  3. Add the garlic and ginger to the alliums and cook, stirring, for 2 more minutes. If the pan looks dry at any time, add a bit more butter or some oil. Add the rice and scrambled eggs and fold to combine. Salt the rice to taste. Increase the heat to medium-high, spread the mixture out evenly over the skillet, and let it cook, uninterrupted, until the bottom is crispy, about 5 minutes. Serve with Sriracha and mayo.

Notes

I used 2 cups diced white onion, 1 cup sliced scallions, and 1 cup finely sliced leeks, to great effect; I also added just a smidge more rice, about 3 cups, to suit our personal preferences. In scrambling the eggs, I simply scrambled them into small pieces in the pan out of habit, rather than chopping later. I imagine you could chop them after or scramble them small in the pan and either way will work.

If you’d like a bit more protein in your fried rice, I love Alana’s iteration of Molly’s fried rice, which adds bacon and was my first introduction to the magic of this allium-heavy dish. I’ve also added diced chicken and (my family’s go-to) ham, and I think some shrimp would be fabulous, too. It’s hard to go wrong with this.

Finally, if you are fallible in the same way as me, you may want to keep an eye on the bottom of your rice and decrease the heat as needed, particularly if your skillet or wok has a thinner bottom. Thick-bottomed skillets like cast-iron will work better for a gradual crisp crust.

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  1. Tori//Gringalicious

    September 21, 2016 at 5:32 am

    This fried rice sounds amazing! I can’t think of many things that I like to make more and I’m all over this version with all the alliums! Totally going to make it!

    Reply
  2. Gerlinde/ Sunnycovechef

    September 21, 2016 at 8:03 am

    Fried rice is my husband’s favorite meal. He would enjoy this version.

    Reply
  3. molly yeh

    September 21, 2016 at 8:25 am

    AHHH!!!! i am going to jump right through the computer and give you the giantest hug in the world!! this post is so sweet, lady, and this fried rice is soooo lucky to be in your beautiful photos <3 <3 <3 <3 i hope baby bowl enjoyed it too 🙂 XOXOXOXOXOXOOXXO

    Reply
  4. Erin @ Her Heartland Soul

    September 21, 2016 at 9:15 am

    I adore fried rice! YUM

    Reply
  5. Heather (delicious not gorgeous)

    September 21, 2016 at 10:34 am

    like you, my family has their own way of making fried rice (my dad always uses oyster sauce and gets too impatient to let the rice crisp, while my mom uses so many vegetables you can’t see the rice). i’m excited to try a new one out though, especially when there’s tons of onions and garlic and ginger (:

    Reply
  6. Warm Vanilla Sugar

    September 21, 2016 at 10:41 am

    I love the title of this post! Really delicious looking dish!

    Reply
  7. Sara @ Cake Over Steak

    September 21, 2016 at 11:09 am

    Aaahhhh I’m so excited for Molly’s book!!! I’m not a huge maker of fried rice (although Robert is quite good at it, as it’s the main thing he would cook in college), but your description of Molly’s recipe has me wanting to try it out ASAP. Gorgeous post as always, Cynthia! xoxo

    Reply
  8. Erica

    September 21, 2016 at 11:13 am

    Hehe your fried rice upbringing… uncannily similar to mine over here. Down to using the deli ham (which my mom switched to turkey in our high school years for fear of the “salt” levels… HAHA). And so this post gives me lots of fuzzy warm feels thinking of my momma and her being scared of my left-handed rice spatula holding skills. I’m so excited for this cookbook I bought it pre-ordered in FEBRUARY!!! Glad to see your stamp of approval! <3

    Reply
  9. wallflourgirl

    September 21, 2016 at 1:05 pm

    yessss fried rice is the best! So funny, my parents just call it “day-old rice” haha but I think it’s seriously the best thing in the world <3

    Reply
  10. Sue/theviewfromgreatisland

    September 22, 2016 at 9:29 am

    This is so simple, and that sriracha mayo puts it right over the top — yum!

    Reply
  11. amy

    September 22, 2016 at 10:42 am

    i want to faceplant into that fried rice!

    Reply
  12. dervla

    September 23, 2016 at 10:23 am

    what a beautiful write up, Cynthia! Totally trying that recipe and love your photographs!

    Reply
  13. Marta @ What should I eat for breakfast today

    September 25, 2016 at 8:19 pm

    This is such a sweet post. I love reading about your pregnancy brain 😀 I remember being there. I was actually thinking about it today when I saw a pregnant lady at the airport. This feeling of having a tiny person inside you. It’s so special and I miss it. I also miss pregnancy brain and all the crazy ideas and needs I had, mostly food needs, hahaha. The dish looks beautiful and I’m very excited about Molly’s book! 🙂

    Reply
  14. erika

    September 26, 2016 at 8:25 am

    Ughhhhh Cynthia reading about your family’s fried rice method growing up was like a hug for my brain. The picture you painted was so vibrant and comfy and relaxing; it makes me want to head home and get some crispy fried rice going asap!! Molly’s book sounds so exciting, and this rice sounds SO good. Defffff adding all the ginger to my next batch of fried rice thanks to you both!! <333

    Reply

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Hi! I’m Cynthia

An avid eater and dabbling food-maker living in California with my husband, “Bowl #2,” and our baby bowls, Luke, Clara, and Fiona.

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